Mexico is the fourth
largest provider in geothermal power. Ranking behind the United States, the
Philippines and Indonesia, Mexico has a geothermal energy capacity of over 900
MW. In 1959, it installed the first geothermal power plant in the Western
hemisphere.
Tuesday, February 26, 2013
Mexico’s People Education and Religion
Politeness and courtesy are as a rule
characteristics of the intelligent and middle classes of the people of Mexico,
and are also observable in intercourse with the humbler ranks of the masses.
They have heretofore looked upon Americans as being hardly more than
semi-civilized. Those with whom they have been most brought in contact have
been reckless and adventurous frontiersmen, drovers, Texans, cow boys, often
individuals who have left their homes in the Northern or Middle States with the
stigma of crime upon them. The inference they have drawn from contact with such
representatives of our population has been but natural. If Mexicans travel
abroad, they generally do so in Europe, sailing from Vera Cruz, and they know
comparatively little of us socially. It is equally true that we have been in
the habit of regarding the Mexicans in much the same light. This mutual feeling
is born of ignorance, and the nearer relation into which the two countries are
now brought by means of the excellent system of railroads is rapidly dispelling
the misconception on both sides of the Rio Grande. The masses, especially the
peons, are far more illiterate than in this country, and are easily led by the
higher intelligence of the few; nor have the Mexicans yet shown much real
progress in the purpose of promoting general education, though incipient steps
have been taken in that direction in most of their cities, affording
substantial proof of the progressive tendencies of the nation. We heard in the
city of Mexico of free night schools being organized, designed for the
improvement of adults.
A division of the populace into castes
rules here almost as imperiously as it does in India, and it will require
generations of close contact with a more cultured and democratic people before
these servile ideas can be obliterated. Though we hear little or nothing said
about this matter, yet to an observant eye it has daily and hourly
demonstration. The native Indians of Mexico are of a different race from their
employers. Originally conquered and enslaved by the Spaniards, though they have
since been emancipated by law, they are still kept in a quasi condition of
peonage by superior wit and finesse. The proprietor of a large hacienda, who
owns land, say ten miles square, manages, by advancing money to them, to keep
the neighboring people in his debt. They are compelled by necessity to purchase
their domestic articles of consumption from the nearest available supply, which
is the storehouse of the hacienda. Here they must pay the price which is
demanded, let it be never so unreasonable. This arrangement is all against the
peon, and all in favor of the employer. The lesser party to such a system is
pretty sure to be cheated right and left, especially as the estate is nearly
always administered by an agent and not by the owner himself. There are some
notable exceptions to this, but these only prove the rule. So long as the
employés owe the proprietor money, they are bound by law to remain in his
service. Wages are so low--say from twenty-five to thirty-five cents per
day--that were the natives of a thrifty, ambitious, and provident disposition,
which is by no means the case, they could not save a dollar towards their
pecuniary emancipation. The laboring classes seem to have no idea of economy or
of providing for the morrow. Food, coarse food, and amusement for the present
hour, that is all they desire, and is all about which they seriously concern
themselves. The next score of years, while they will probably do much for the
country as regards commercial and intellectual improvement, will prove fatal in
a degree to the picturesqueness which now renders Mexico so attractive. Radical
progress in one direction must needs be destructive in another, and while some
of the allurements of her strong individuality will disappear, her moral and
physical status will be greatly improved. Her ragged, half-naked people will
don proper attire, sacrificing the gaudy colors which now make every out-door
scene kaleidoscopic; a modern grain thresher will take the place of weary
animals plodding in a circle, treading out the grain; half-clad women at the
fountains will disappear, and iron pipes will convey water for domestic use to
the place of consumption. The awkward branch of crooked wood now used to turn
the soil will be replaced by the modern plough, and reaping machines will
relieve the weary backs of men, women, and children, who slowly grub beneath a
burning sun through the broad grain fields. Irrigating streams will be made to
flow by their own gravitation, while the wooden bucket and well-sweep will
become idle and useless. Still, we are not among those who see only a bright
side for the future of the republic, nor do we believe so confidently as some
writers in her great natural resources. They are abundant, but not so very
exceptional as enthusiasts would have us believe. Aside from the production of
silver, which all must admit to be inexhaustible, she has very little to boast
of. It is doubtful if any other equal area in the world possesses larger
deposits of the precious metals, or has already yielded to man more bountifully
of them. We have seen it asserted by careful and experienced writers, that one
half of all the silver now in use among the nations originally came from Mexico.
Her real and permanent progress is inevitable; but it will be very gradual,
coming not through her rich mines of gold and silver, but by the growth of her
agricultural and manufacturing interests; and if in a score of years she can
assume a position of respect and importance in the line of nations, it is all
that can reasonably be expected. If Mexico can but advance in progressive ideas
as rapidly during the next ten years as she has done during the decade just
past, the period we have named will be abbreviated, and her condition will
amount to a moral revolution.
Our sister republic has yet to
accomplish two special and important objects: first, the suppression of the
secret and malign influence of the Roman Catholic priesthood; and, secondly,
the promotion of education among the masses. Since the separation of church and
state, in 1857, education has made slow but steady advances. Most of the states
have adopted the system of compulsory education, penalties being affixed to
non-compliance with the law, and rewards decreed for those who voluntarily
observe the same. Though shorn of so large a degree of its temporal powers, the
church is still secretly active in its machinations for evil. The vast army of
non-producing, indolent priests is active in one direction, namely, that for
the suppression of all intelligent progress, and the complete subjugation of
the common people through superstition and ignorance. A realization of the
condition of affairs may be had from the following circumstance related to us
by a responsible American resident. It must be remembered that the wheat, which
in some well-irrigated districts is the principal product, is threshed by means
of piling it up on the hard clay soil, and driving goats, sheep, and burros
over it. These animals trudge round and round, with weary limbs, knee deep in
the straw, for hours together, urged forward by whips in the hands of men and
boys, and thus the grain is separated from the stalks. Of course the product
threshed out in this manner is contaminated with animal filth of all sorts. An
enterprising American witnessed this primitive process not long since, and on
returning to his northern home resolved to take back with him to Mexico a
modern threshing machine; and being more desirous to introduce it for the
benefit of the people than to make any money out of the operation, he offered
the machine at cost price. A native farmer was induced to put one on trial,
when it was at once found that it not only took the place of a dozen men and
boys, but also of twice that number of animals. This was not all; the machine
performed the work in less than one quarter of the time required to do the same
amount of work by the old method, besides rendering the grain in a perfectly
clear condition. This would seem to be entirely satisfactory, and was so until
it got to the ears of the priests. They came upon the ground to see the machine
work, and were amazed. This would not answer, according to their ideas; from
their standpoint it was a dangerous innovation. What might it not lead to! They
therefore declared that the devil was in the machine, and absolutely forbade
the peons to work with it! Their threats and warnings frightened their
ignorant, servile parishioners out of their wits. The machine was accordingly
shipped north of the Rio Grande, whence it came, to prevent the natives from
destroying it, and cattle still tread out the grain, which they render dirty
and unfit for food, except in the most populous centres, where modern machinery
is being gradually introduced.
"The clogging influence of the
Romish Church," says Hon. John H. Rice, "upon civilization and
progress are seen in its opposition to the education and elevation of the
common people; in its intolerant warfare against freedom of conscience, and all
other forms of religious worship, frequently displayed in persecutions, and
sometimes in personal injuries; and in its stolid opposition to the onward
march of development and improvement, unless directed to its own
advantage."
Mexico and Faith
At last it would seem as though the
energies of this much distracted country, so long the victim of the priesthood,
professional brigandage, and civil and foreign wars, have become diverted into
channels of productive industry, developing resources of wealth and stability
which have heretofore been unrecognized. A country facing upon two oceans, and
having seven or eight railroad lines intersecting it in various directions,
cannot remain in statu quo; it must take its place more or less promptly in the grand line
of nations, all of whom are moving forward under the influence of the
progressive ideas of the nineteenth century. It is only since 1876 that Mexico
has enjoyed anything like a stable government; and as her constitution is
modeled upon our own, let us sincerely hope for the best results. General
Porfirio Diaz, President of the republic, is a man whose official and private
life commands the respect of the entire people. That his administration has
given the country a grand impetus, has largely restored its credit, and insured
a continuance of peace, seems to be an undisputed fact. His principal purpose
is plainly to modernize Mexico. The twelve years from 1876, when he became
president, until 1889, when his third term commenced, has proved to be the progressive
age of the republic. He is of native birth, and rose from the ranks of the
masses. The only opposition to his government is that of the church party, led
by the Archbishop of Mexico, and supported by that great army of non-producers,
the useless priests, who fatten upon the poor and superstitious populace. At
present this party has no political power or influence, but is working at all
times, in secret, silently awaiting an opportunity to sacrifice anything or
everything to the sole interests of the Roman Catholic Church. "The
political struggle in Mexico," says United States Commissioner William
Eleroy Curtis, "since the independence of the republic, has been and will
continue to be between antiquated, bigoted, and despotic Romanism, allied with
the ancient aristocracy, under whose encouragement Maximilian came, on the one
hand, and the spirit of intellectual, industrial, commercial, and social
progress on the other."
Here, as in European countries, where
this form of faith prevails, it is the women mostly--we might almost say
solely, in Mexico--who give their attendance upon the ceremonies of the church.
The male population are seldom seen within its walls, though yielding a sort of
tacit acquiescence to the faith. We are speaking of large communities in the
cities and among the more intelligent classes. The peons of the rural
districts, the ignorant masses who do not think for themselves, but who are yet
full of superstitious fears, are easily impressed by church paraphernalia,
gorgeous trappings, and gilded images. This class, men and women, are
completely under the guidance of the priesthood. "Although the clergy
still exercise a powerful influence among the common people," says
Commissioner Curtis, "whose superstitious ignorance has not yet been reached
by the free schools and compulsory education law, in politics they are
powerless." It was in 1857 that Mexico formally divorced the church and
state by an amendment to her constitution, thereby granting unrestricted
freedom of conscience and religious worship to all persons, sects, and
churches. Several denominations in the United States avail themselves of this
privilege, and in some of the cities Protestant churches have been established
where regular weekly services are held. "With the overthrow of Montezuma's
empire in 1520," says that distinguished native Mexican writer, Riveray
Rio, "began the rule of the Spaniard, which lasted just three hundred
years. During this time, Rome and Spain, priest and king, held this land and
people as a joint possession. The greedy hand was ever reached out to seize
alike the product of the mine and soil. The people were enslaved for the
aggrandizement and power of a foreign church and state. It was then that the
Church of Rome fostered such a vast army of friars, priests, and nuns, acquired
those vast landed estates, and erected such an incredible number of stone
churches, great convents, inquisitorial buildings, Jesuit colleges, and
gathered such vast stores of gold and silver. All this time the poor people
were being reduced to the utmost poverty, and every right and opportunity for
personal and civil advancement was taken from them. They were left to grope on
in intellectual darkness. They could have no commerce with foreign nations. If
they made any advance in national wealth, it was drained away for royal and
ecclesiastical tribute. Superstition reigned under the false teachings of a
corrupt priesthood, while the frightful Inquisition, by its cruel machinery,
coerced the people to an abjectness that has scarcely had a parallel in human
history. Under such a dispensation of evil rule, Mexico became of less and less
importance among the family of nations."
This brief summary brings us to the
peaceful and comparatively prosperous condition of the republic to-day, and
prepares the canvas upon which to sketch the proposed pen pictures of this
interesting country, with which we are so intimately connected, both
politically and geographically.
Mexico Moving at a Different Rhythm
The stranger who comes to Mexico with
the expectation of enjoying his visit must bring with him a liberal and
tolerant spirit. He must be prepared to encounter a marked difference of race,
of social and business life, together with the absence of many of such domestic
comforts as habit has rendered almost necessities. The exercise of a little
philosophy will reconcile him to the exigencies of the case, and render
endurable here what would be inadmissible at home. A coarse, ill-cooked dinner,
untidy service, and an unappeased appetite must be compensated by active
interest in grand and peculiar scenery; a hard bed and a sleepless night, by
the intelligent enjoyment of famous places clothed with historic interest; foul
smells and rank odors, by the charming study of a unique people,
extraordinarily interesting in their wretched squalor and nakedness. Though the
stranger is brought but little in contact therewith, owing to the briefness of
his visit to the country, quite enough is casually seen and experienced to show
that there is no lack of culture and refinement, no absence of warmth of heart
and gracious hospitality, among the more favored classes of Mexico, both in the
northern and southern sections of the country. Underneath the exaggerated
expressions so common to Spanish etiquette, there is yet a real cordiality
which the discriminating visitor will not fail to recognize. If, on a first
introduction and visit, he is told that the house and all it contains is his
own, and that the proprietor is entirely at his service, he will neither take
this literally nor as a burlesque, but will receive the assurance for what it
really signifies, that is, as conveying a spirit of cordiality. These
expressions are as purely conventional as though the host asked simply and
pleasantly after his guest's health, and mean no more.
If progress is and has been slow in
Mexico, it must be remembered that every advance has been consummated under
most discouraging circumstances, and yet that the charitable, educational,
artistic, and technological institutions already firmly established, are
quietly revolutionizing the people through the most peaceful but effective
agencies.
As to government organization, the
several states are represented in congress by two senators each, with one
representative to the lower house from each section comprising a population of
forty thousand. The federal district is under the exclusive jurisdiction of
congress. The division of power as accorded to the several states is almost
precisely like that of our own government. The federal authority is
administered by a president, aided by six cabinet ministers at the head of the
several departments of state, such as the minister of foreign affairs, of the
treasury, secretary of war, and so on. Thus it will be seen that the republic
of Mexico has adopted our own constitution as her model throughout.
As long as heavy and almost
prohibitory duties exist in Mexico, and are exacted on nearly everything except
the production of the precious metals, the development of her other resources
must be circumscribed. With a rich soil and plenty of cheap labor, she ought to
be able to export many staples which would command our markets, especially as
regards coffee, cotton, and wool. If the custom-houses on each side of the
boundary between this country and Mexico could be abolished, both would reap an
immense pecuniary benefit, while the sister republic would realize an impetus
in every desirable respect which nothing else could so quickly bring about.
Wealth and population would rapidly flow into this southern land, whose
agriculture would thrive as it has never yet done, and its manufactories would
double in number as well as in pecuniary gain. It requires no argument to show
that our neighbors could not be thus largely benefited without our own country
also reaping an equivalent advantage.
The very name of Mexico has been for
years the synonym of barbarism; but the traveled and reading public have
gradually come to realize that it is a country embracing many large and
populous cities, where the amenities of modern civilization abound, where
elegance and culture are freely manifested, and where great wealth has been
accumulated in the pursuit of legitimate business by the leading citizens. The
national capital will ere-long contain a population of half a million, while
the many new and costly edifices now erecting in the immediate environs are of
a spacious and elegant character, adapted, of course, to the climate, but yet
combining many European and American elements of advanced domestic
architecture.
Geographical Products of Mexico
Let us consider for a moment the
geographical situation of this great southland, which is separated from us only
by a comparatively insignificant stream of water.
The present republic of Mexico is
bounded on the north by the United States, from which it is separated in part
by the narrow Rio Grande; on the south by Guatemala, Balize, and the Pacific
Ocean; on the east by the Gulf of Mexico; and on the west by the Pacific Ocean,
extending as far north as the Bay of San Diego, California. Of its nearly six
thousand miles of coast line, sixteen hundred are on the Gulf of Mexico and
forty-two hundred miles are on the Pacific. The topographical aspect of the
country has been not inappropriately likened to an inverted cornucopia. Its
greatest length from northwest to southeast is almost exactly two thousand
miles, and its greatest width, which is at the twenty-sixth degree of north
latitude, is seven hundred and fifty miles. The minimum width is at the Isthmus
of Tehuantepec, where it contracts to a hundred and fifty miles. The area of
the entire republic is probably a little less than eight hundred thousand
square miles. Trustworthy statistics relating to Mexico are not attainable.
Even official reports are scarcely better than estimates. Carlos Butterfield,
accredited statistician, makes the area of the republic about thirty-three
thousand square miles less than the figures we have given. He also calculates
that the density of the population is some ten or eleven to the square mile.
Other authorities, however, give the area much nearer to our own figures. A
detailed survey which would enable us to get at a satisfactory aggregate has
never been made, so that a careful estimate is all we have to depend upon.
The climate of the country is divided
by common acceptation into three zones, each of which is well defined: it being
hot in the tierra
caliente,
or hot lands, of the coast; temperate in the tierra templada, or region between
three thousand and six thousand feet above the level of the sea; and cold in
the tierra
fria,
or region at an elevation exceeding six thousand feet. In the first named the
extreme heat is 100° Fahr.; in the last the extreme of cold is 20° above zero.
In the national capital the mercury ranges between 65° and 75° Fahr. throughout
the year. In fact, every climate known to the traveler may be met with between
Vera Cruz and the capital of the republic. In the neighborhood of Orizaba one
finds sugar-cane and Indian corn, tobacco and palm-trees, bananas and peaches,
growing side by side.
Let us state in brief, for general
information, the main products of these three geographical divisions. In the
hot region we find cotton, vanilla, hemp, pepper, cocoa, oranges, bananas,
indigo, rice, and various other tropical fruits. In the temperate region,
tobacco, coffee, sugar, maize, the brown bean, peas, and most of the favorite
northern fruits. Here extreme heat and frost are alike unknown. In the cold
region, all of the hardy vegetables, such as potatoes, beets, carrots, and the
cereals, wheat growing at as high an elevation as eighty-five hundred feet,
while two crops annually are grown in various sections of the tierra templada. Tobacco is
indigenous in Mexico, and derives its name from Tabaco in Yucatan. Indian corn
and brown beans, two of the principal sources of the food consumed by the
natives, are grown in all the states of the republic.
Mexico is situated in the same degree
of latitude in the Western Hemisphere that Egypt occupies in the Eastern, the
Tropic of Cancer dividing both countries in the centre. There is a striking
resemblance between them, also, in many other respects, such as architecture,
vegetation, domestic utensils, mode of cultivating the land, ancient pyramids,
and idols, while both afford abundant tokens of a history antedating all
accredited record. Toltec and Aztec antiquities bear a remarkable resemblance
to the old Egyptian remains to be found in the museums of Europe and America.
Speaking of these evidences of a former and unknown race still to be found in
southern Mexico, especially in Yucatan, Wilson the historian says: "In
their solidity they strikingly remind us of the best productions of Egyptian
art. Nor are they less venerable in appearance than those which excite our
admiration in the valley of the Nile. Their points of resemblance, too, are so
numerous, they carry to the beholder a conviction that the architects on this
side of the ocean were familiar with the models on the other." Doubtless
the volcanic soil of Mexico conceals vast remains of the far past, even as
Pompeii was covered and continued unsuspected for centuries, until accident led
to its being gradually exhumed. Whole cities are known to have disappeared in
various parts of Mexico, leaving no more evidence of their existence than may
be found in a few broken columns or some half-disintegrated stones. Of this
mutability we shall have ample evidence as we progress on our route through the
several states. When in various parts of the country we see the native laborers
irrigating the land in the style which prevailed thousands of years ago on the
banks of the Nile, and behold the dark-hued women slightly clothed in a white
cotton fabric with faces half-concealed, while they bear water jars upon their
heads, we seem to breathe the very atmosphere of Asia. The rapid introduction
of railroads and the modern facilities for travel are fast rendering us as
familiar with the characteristics of this land of the Montezumas as we have long
been with that of the Pharaohs; and though it has not the halo of Biblical
story to recommend it to us, yet Mexico is not lacking in numberless legends,
poetic associations, and the charm of a tragic history quite as picturesque and
absorbing as that of any portion of the East. Many intelligent students of
history believe that the first inhabitants of this continent probably came from
Asia by way of Behring Strait or the Aleutian Islands, which may at some period
in past ages have extended across the north Pacific Ocean; the outermost island
of this group (Attoo), it will be remembered, is at this time but four hundred
miles from the Asiatic coast, whence it is believed to have been originally
peopled.
A Country Misunderstood
Having resolved to visit Mexico, the question first to be
considered was how to do so in the most advantageous manner. Repairing to the
office of Messrs. Raymond & Whitcomb, in Boston, after a brief consultation
with those experienced organizers of travel, the author handed the firm a check
for the cost of a round trip to Mexico and back. On the following day he took
his seat in a Pullman parlor car in Boston, to occupy the same section until
his return from an excursion of ten thousand miles. A select party of ladies
and gentlemen came together at the same time in the Fitchburg railroad station,
most of whom were strangers to each other, but who were united by the same
purpose. The traveler lives, eats, and sleeps in the vestibule train, while en route, in which he first embarks, until his
return to the starting-point, a dining-car, with reading and writing rooms,
also forming a part of the train. All care regarding the routes to be followed,
as to hotel accommodations while stopping in large cities, side excursions, and
the providing of domestic necessities, are dismissed from his mind. He
luxuriates in the pleasure of seeing a strange and beautiful land, without a thought
as to the modus
operandi, or the
means by which detail is conquered. In short, he dons Fortunatus's cap, and
permits events to develop themselves to his intense delight. Such was the
author's experience on the occasion concerning which these wayside views of
Mexico were written. It was a holiday journey, but it is hoped that a
description of it may impart to the general reader a portion of the pleasure
and useful information which the author realized from an excursion into Aztec
Land, full of novel and uninterrupted enjoyment.
Bordering upon the United States on the extreme southwest, for a
distance of more than two thousand miles, is a republic which represents a
civilization possibly as old as that of Egypt; a land, notwithstanding its
proximity to us, of which the average American knows less than he does of
France or Italy, but which rivals them in natural picturesqueness, and nearly
equals them in historic interest.
It is a country which is much misunderstood and almost wholly
misrepresented. It may be called the land of tradition and romance, whose true
story is most poetic and sanguinary. Such is Mexico, with her twenty-seven
independent states, a federal district in which is situated the national
capital, and the territory of Lower California,--a widespread country,
containing in all a population of between ten and eleven millions. As in the
instance of this Union, each state controls its internal affairs so far as it
can do so without conflicting with the laws of the national government, which are
explicitly defined. The nature of the constitution, adopted in 1857 by the
combined states, is that of a republic pure and simple, thoroughly democratic
in its provisions. The national power resides in the people, from whom emanates
all public authority. The glowing pen of Prescott has rendered us all familiar
with the romantic side of Mexican history, but legitimate knowledge of her
primitive story is, unfortunately, of the most fragmentary character. Our
information concerning the early inhabitants comes almost solely through the
writings of irresponsible monks and priests who could neither see nor represent
anything relative to an idolatrous people save in accordance with the special
interests of their own church; or from Spanish historians who had never set
foot upon the territory of which they wrote, and who consequently repeated with
heightened color the legends, traditions, and exaggerations of others.
"The general opinion may be expressed," says Janvier, in his
"Mexican Guide," "in regard to the writings concerning this
period that, as a rule, a most gorgeous superstructure of fancy has been raised
upon a very meagre foundation of fact. As romance, information of this highly
imaginative sort is entertaining, but it is not edifying." One would be
glad to get at the other side of the Aztec story, which, we suspect, would
place the chivalric invaders in a very different light from that of their own
boastful records, and also enable us to form a more just and truthful opinion
of the aborigines themselves. That their numbers, religious sacrifices, and
barbaric excesses are generally overdrawn is perfectly manifest. Every
fair-minded student of history frankly admits this. It was necessary for Cortez
and his followers to paint the character of the Aztecs in darkest hues to
palliate and excuse, in a measure, their own wholesale rapine and murder. It
was the elder Dumas who said, "Truth is liable to be left-handed in
history." As Cortez was a champion of the Roman Catholic Church, that
institution did not hesitate to represent his achievements so as to redound to
its own glory. "Posterity is too often deceived by the vague hyperboles of
poets and rhetoricians," says Macaulay, "who mistake the splendor of
a court for the happiness of a people." No one can forget the magnificence
of Montezuma's household as represented by the chroniclers, and as magnified by
time and distance.
A City Where You Never Die
Saltillo, which lies some seventy
miles to the eastward of Jaral, is now the capital of the State of Coahuila.
Before the separation of Texas from Mexico it was the capital of that State. It
is situated five thousand feet above the sea level, on the northeastern edge of
the table-land already spoken of, and has a population of about eighteen
thousand. The table-land, as it is termed, declines more or less abruptly on
the east towards the Gulf of Mexico, and on the west towards the Pacific Ocean.
Saltillo is a manufacturing town, built almost wholly of sun-dried bricks, and
is noted for the production of rebosas and serapes. The people living south of
this region and on the lower lands make of Saltillo a summer resort. It is
humorously said that people never die here; they grow old, dry up, and
disappear. The place is certainly very healthy. It is over three hundred years
old, and looks as though it had existed in prehistoric times. It has, like all
Mexican cities, its alameda, its bull ring, and its plaza, the latter
particularly well-cared for, beautiful in flowers and charming shade trees,
together with well-trimmed shrubbery. The Calle Real is the principal
thoroughfare, over which the traveler will find his way to the famous
battlefield of Buena Vista (pronounced Wana Veesta), about eight miles from the
city proper. This was one of the fiercest battles ever fought on Mexican soil.
General Taylor had only forty-five hundred men of all arms, while Santa Anna's
army numbered twenty-two thousand! The Americans had the most advantageous
position, but were at times overwhelmed by numbers. Notwithstanding this, at
the end of the second day, February 23, 1847, the American flag waved in
triumph over the field, and the Mexicans were utterly routed. It was of this
hard-fought battle that Santa Anna said: "We whipped the Americans half a
dozen times, and once completely surrounded them; but they would not stay
whipped." The battle of Buena Vista was fought at a great altitude, nearly
as high above the level of the sea as the summit of Mount Washington in New
England.
The baths of San Lorenzo, a league
from the city, are worth visiting, being cleanly and enjoyable.
About seventy-five miles to the
eastward of Saltillo, and eight hundred miles, more or less, from the national
capital, on the line of the Mexican International Railroad, which crosses the
Rio Grande at Laredo, is the city of Monterey,--"King
Mountain,"--capital of the State of Nuevo Leon. It is eighteen hundred
feet above the sea and contains nearly twenty thousand inhabitants. It was
founded three hundred years ago, and its history is especially blended with
that of the Roman Catholic Church during the intervening period. Here one finds
quite a large American colony; but still the place is essentially Mexican in
its manners and customs. The city stands upon very uneven ground, in the middle
of an extensive plain, with grand mountains rising to view in the distance on
all sides. The Rio de Santa Catarina flows through the town. In coming hither
from Saltillo we descend thirty-five hundred feet, or about an average of fifty
feet to the mile. It is considered to be a healthy locality, and invalids from
the Northern States of this country have often resorted to Monterey in winter;
but the public accommodations are so poor that one should hesitate about
sending an invalid there who must necessarily leave most of the ordinary
domestic comforts behind. Mexican hotels may answer for people in vigorous
health who have robust stomachs, but not for one in delicate health. In no
other part of the country is there a greater variety of the cactus family to be
seen, illustrating its prominent peculiarity, namely, that it seems to grow
best in the poorest soil. Several of the varieties have within their flowers a
mass of edible substance, which the natives gather and bring to market daily. The
flowers of the cactus are of various colors, white and yellow being the
prevailing hues.
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